بررسی تاریخی-تطبیقی لباس اقوام مغول در دوره ایلخانی و یوان(مطالعه موردی لباس جیسون و ترلیگ مردان )

The Mongols, a coalition of tribes from Central Asia, initiated their conquest of East and West Asia in the early 13th century. Initially the Mongol tribes invaded and later settled in regions like Iran and China. Their expansion into the eastern and western corners of Asia, and even Eastern Europe, facilitated significant cultural exchanges and transformations. This interchange of ideas and customs resulted in a blending of Eastern and Western cultures, shaping new societal norms and practices. Additionally, the Mongol tribes introduced their own cultural traits to these territories, including distinctive clothing styles. Mongol clothing became prevalent in the regions under their rule, spanning from the Zarin camp on the Qapchag to Joghtai in Central Asia, Yuan in China, and Ilkhanid in Iran This article aims to investigate the transformations in Mongol clothing within the territories of Iran and China. The research endeavors to address the following these questions: 1.What was the clothing of the Mongols before Genghis Khan's conquests, and 2.what changes did it make during the Ilkhanate period in Iran and the Yuan period in China?3. What distinctions and commonalities exist in the clothings of Mongol tribes in Iran and China? Furthermore,4. what factors contribute to these similarities and disparities? Method: Since the approach of this article has described and analyzed, firstly, images corresponding to Terlig and Jhisun clothing in Iran and China during the Ilkhanid and Yuan periods from the Metropolitan Museums, the National Museum of Taipei, and the David Copenhagen Museum, as well as from the images of the manuscript of Jame al-Tawarikh in Arabic, which are in The museum of the University of Edinburgh is located and other researches were collected, in this article 21 images are considered as the statistical population. After the description and analysis of Terlig and Jhisun before the expansion of Genghis Khan's empire, using the historical comparative method, the description of Mongolian men's clothing, including Terlig and Jhisun - separately - during the Ilkhani and Yuan regimes was discussed in order to show the changes in the clothing of Mongolian men over time. and settlement in conquered lands was revealed and then its differences and similarities were evaluated and finally the factors affecting these changes were investigated. It should be noted that there were pieces of cloth in museums such as the Metropolitan Museum and David Copenhagen Museum, whose color and pattern were clear, but there was ambiguity as to whether it was Mongolian or non-Mongolian clothing. Due to the fact that the subject of this article is the clothes of the Mongol tribes, it is not possible to refer to them, therefore, emphasis has been placed on the images and matching them with historical data. The results of the analysis reveal significant differences in the territories of Iran and China compared to previous Mongol settlements. The steppe regions inhabited by Mongolian tribes featured sparse vegetation, influencing the color and material used for their clothing. Two prominent clothing styles among Mongol men were the Terlig and Jhisun garments. The geographical location of the Mongol settlements influenced the simplicity and thickness these clothing styles. There was a noticeable evolution in the shape and design of clothes, possibly resulting from cultural exchanges. Certain colors, such as blue and red, were prevalent in the clothing of Mongol kings in both Iran and China showcasing similarities. However, variations in design, such as longer sleeves influenced by Chinese culture, distinguished the clothing styles in the two regions. In Iran and China, clothing designs often featured motifs of animals like deer and fox for kings along with Islamic patterns for kings and courtiers. In Chinese designs, clouds also commonly incorporated alongside animal motifs. many images of ordinary people's clothes were not found due to the lack of attention of historians and painters to non-court people. However, the clothes of ordinary people, non-aristocrats and non-court people, both in Iran and China, did not differ in appearance, but it was different in material and pattern. Before the establishment of the empire, Mongol tribes used to make clothes from the skin and wool of animals such as squirrel, sable, sheep, etc. and They separated the upper body and the lower body of the clothes with strips of ordinary material. Jhisun is a ceremonial garment during the Mongol rule in Iran and China, and it was evident only for kings . Several factors contributed to the evolution of Mongolian clothing, including the resettlement of Mongolian populations, the geographical characteristics of their new territories, the Mongol rule over conquered lands, and the influence of local cultures. The similarities in Mongol clothing between the Yuan and Ilkhanate periods can be attributed to the trade of fabric and clothing between these regions, as well as the presence of Chinese artisans and Iranians who played a role in shaping clothing styles in both territories.