A Historical-Adaptive Study of Mongol Dress during the Ilkhanid and Yuan Periods (With an Emphasis on Zhisun and Terlig Men's Clothing)

Document Type : Research Paper

Authors

1 PhD student at Department of History, Faculty of Literature, Alzahra University, Tehran, Iran.

2 Associate Professor at Department of History, Faculty of Literature, Alzahra University, Tehran, Iran.

Abstract

Introduction: The Mongols, a confederation of tribes from Central Asia, initiated their conquest of East and West Asia in the early 13th century. Initially, the Mongol tribes invaded and later settled in regions such as Iran and China. Their expansion into the eastern and western regions of Asia, and even Eastern Europe, facilitated significant cultural exchanges and transformations. This interchange of ideas and customs resulted in the blending of Eastern and Western cultures, shaping new societal norms and practices. Moreover, the Mongol tribes introduced their cultural traits into these territories, including distinctive clothing styles. Mongol dress became prevalent in the regions under their rule, spanning from the Zarin camp on the Qapchag to Joghtai in Central Asia, Yuan in China, and Ilkhanid in Iran.
Purposes & Questions: This article aims to investigate the transformations in Mongol  dress across the territories of Iran and China. The research endeavors to address the following questions 1. What was the clothing of the Mongols before Genghis Khan's conquests? and 2. What changes occurred during the Ilkhanate period in Iran and the Yuan period in China? 3. What distinctions and commonalities exist in the dress of Mongol tribes in Iran and China? Furthermore, 4. What factors contributed to these similarities and disparities?
Methods: The approach of this article is descriptive and analytical, and its methodology is qualitative and historical comparative. The method of collecting information is using the library method and digital resources. The statistical population is paintings, tiles, and fabrics, and the sampling method of Terlig and Jhisun clothing in Ilkhanid period Iran from the sites of the Metropolitan Museum, the David Copenhagen Museum, and from the images of the manuscript of Jami' al-Tawarikh in the Arabic language, which is in the museum of the University of Edinburgh, and the images available in the research. It has been collected that eight images were selected. For Terlig and Zhisun's dress in Yuan period China, the site of the National Taipei Museum, the Metropolitan Museum, and existing research are used as examples; 8 images are also considered, and a total of 16 images are selected for comparative study. It should be noted that in some museums, such as the Metropolitan Museum and the David Copenhagen, there were pieces of cloth from the Ilkhanate and Yuan periods whose color and pattern were clear. However, it was sometimes unclear whether it was Mongolian or non-Mongolian clothing. Since the subject of this article is the clothing of the Mongol tribes, it is not possible to refer to them; therefore, emphasis has been placed on the images and matching them with historical data.
Findings & Results: The results of the analysis reveal significant differences in the territories of Iran and China compared to previous Mongol settlements. The steppe regions inhabited by Mongolian tribes featured sparse vegetation, influencing the colors and materials used for their clothing. Two prominent clothing styles among Mongol men were the Terlig and Zhisun garments. The geographical location of the Mongol settlements influenced the simplicity and thickness of these clothing styles. There was a noticeable evolution in the shape and design of clothes, likely resulting from cultural exchanges. Certain colors, such as blue and red, were prevalent in the clothing of Mongol kings in both Iran and China, demonstrating similarities. However, variations in design, such as longer sleeves influenced by Chinese culture, distinguished the clothing styles in the two regions. In Iran and China, clothing designs often featured motifs of animals like deer and foxes for kings, along with Islamic patterns for kings and courtiers. In Chinese designs, clouds were also commonly incorporated alongside animal motifs. Many images of ordinary people's attire were not found due to historians’ and painters’ lack of attention to non-court individuals. However, the clothes of ordinary people, non-aristocrats, and non-court people, both in Iran and China, did not differ in appearance; they were different in material and pattern. Before the establishment of the empire, Mongol tribes used to produce clothing from the skin and wool of animals such as squirrels, sable, sheep, etc. They separated upper and lower parts of garments with strips of ordinary fabric. Zhisun was a ceremonial garment during the Mongol rule in Iran and China, and it was evident only to the kings in the existing images that the material of the cloth had changed. Several factors contributed to the evolution of Mongolian clothing, including the resettlement of Mongolian populations, the geographical characteristics of their new territories, the Mongol rule over conquered lands, and the influence of local cultures. The similarities in Mongol clothing between the Yuan and Ilkhanate periods can be attributed to the trade of fabrics and clothing between these regions, as well as the involvement of Chinese artisans and Iranians shaping clothing styles in both territories.

Keywords

References

 
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Negareh Journal
Volume 20, Issue 76
January 2026
Pages 23-24

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History

  • Receive Date: 05 July 2025
  • Revise Date: 23 October 2025
  • Accept Date: 04 December 2025

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