The Semiotics of Clothes in the Paintings of Mohammad Siah Qalam based on the Views of Roland Barthes

Document Type : Research Paper

Authors

1 Master's student in the field of Iranian painting, Faculty of Arts, Shahid University

2 Assistant Professor, Department of Islamic Art, Faculty of Arts, Shahid University,

10.22070/negareh.2023.16743.3105

Abstract

Mohammad Siah Qalam's paintings can be examined due to the focus on displaying all kinds of clothes. The clothing system was proposed as one of the symbolic elements by Roland Barthes. The goals of this research are the semiotics of clothes in the paintings of Mohammad Siah Qalam and deciphering their meanings. The two questions of this research include: 1. According to the opinions of Roland Barthes, what semiotic aspects are the clothes in the paintings of Mohammad Siah Qalam based on? 2. What are the differences and commonalities of clothes in the paintings of Mohammad Siah Qalam according to the social status of the different classes in the paintings? This article has been conducted using the descriptive-analytical method and using the fiche tool, library sources and documents. The statistical content of Siah Qalam’s drawings is centered on the drawing of clothes, of which nine drawings have been selected non-randomly from reliable sources and have been discussed until theoretical saturation is reached. The qualitative information analysis method has been analyzed and investigated through the description and analysis of the pictures from the perspective of the research on the Siah Qalam’s pictures. Results show that the accuracy of Siah Qalam's opinion in using the cover as a visual sign is to introduce the characters of the paintings. In Siah Qalam's works, the symbols can be tracked and classified in terms of the size and length of the clothes, the level of wear, and also on another level the use of accessories related to the clothes. Roland Barthes points out that the type and degree of adherence to these symbols can be perceived in the audience's perception of the social level of people, and in the characters created by Siah Qalam, the clothes and the way they are displayed on the figures, guide the audience in distinguishing a character from each of the social spectrums depicted by Mohammad Siah Qalam.
Semiotics is one of the new methods in human sciences, and since the 1950s, it has been used as a research method, especially in "cognition of significations" and "perception of communication mechanisms". Saussure introduces semiotics as a science to study the role of signs as a part of social life. Peirce also called semiotics the formal theory of signs, which is closely related to logic. Semiotics is a science based on the study of cultural phenomena which belong to semiotic systems and also deals with the study and follow-up of all human behavioral methods in the course of communication. Siah Qalam uses the style of pointillism to depict the texture of the body's skin and the texture of the clothes, and shows the details of the clothes with a range of balanced and parallel lines. Another point that can be understood from the study of Master Mohammad Siah Qalam is the different way of writing by Mohammad Siah Qalam compared to other masters of painting. Barthes is in favor of the opinion that the meaning of the elements is in the endless scope of modern human life. He states about the "elements of semiotics" that the sign, like its model, is made up of a signifier and a signified, and society with denotative goals has diverted them from the main path of their essence to another direction and has given them a meaningful function. For example, clothes are for covering the body and food is for nutrition; while these two examples are also used as an indication. These signs can be called "functional signs (function-sign)"; because they are functional and they appeared due to the need to use them. Barthes' major work in the field of semiotics is based on these functional signs; what attracts attention most of all in Mohammad Siah Qalam's paintings is the accuracy in separating the layers with signs such as clothes and ornaments, and of course, the adherence to accuracy in drawing and the accuracy in details of creation of his pieces in periods of his work.
The fashion system is a system that is formed based on the decisions of a few consultants and based on equivalences and combinations; it shows optional relationships such as mandatory and natural relationships and also a kind of mandatory law. The language of fashion does not originate from the speaking mass, but it is issued by a group that makes fundamental decisions and carefully shapes and constructs the code. The method of covering is taken from traditions; Clothes form the language in the clothing system as they are worn. Speech in the cover system includes all the phenomena related to the individual construction of the cover or irregular construction. In the end, examination of his works determined that "Mohammed Siah Qalam" was one of the painters who went beyond the framework of the general rules governing Iranian painting.

Keywords

References

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Negareh Journal
Volume 19, Issue 71
September 2024
Pages 69-85

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History

  • Receive Date: 04 September 2022
  • Revise Date: 30 December 2022
  • Accept Date: 03 January 2023

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